Traveling to Mexico to me has always been about popular party destinations such as Alcapulco or Cancun, beach escapes such as the Riviera Maya and Tulum, or a quick weekend trip to border cities, crammed into a car sporting a Californian license plate. I have never been to Central Mexico until recently, and I'd say it's the closest I've ever been to the heart of the country, and the heart of true Mexican culture.
My husband and I had the pleasure of attending a friend's destination wedding where the couple had chosen to hold their special day in the city of San Miguel de Allende - of all places. San Miguel de Allende is a 1 hour drive from the closest airport in the city of Queretaro, where only a few major airlines frequent. The other option would be to fly into Mexico City and make the almost 4 hour journey by road to San Miguel de Allende. I'd be lying if I said that we didn't grumble a little bit while trying to work out logistics...
Before the trip, I had read several little articles on travel blogs and sites about San Miguel de Allende. It's apparently a very popular place for Americans to retire to outside of the US. It supposedly has perfect weather that could rival that of San Diego, California, and it was agreed across the board that San Miguel de Allende is much a small sanctuary, still undiscovered by many, and not (yet) ruined by the tourists that travel in mass packs to popular destinations around the world.
I love new and modernized cities. But I love old cities more. San Miguel de Allende has certainly polished many of its restaurant, hotel and home interiors with modern amenities and deco. Yet from the outside, you can still see glimpses of the way life used to be, of culture that still remains preserved. With roads and sidewalks wrinkled with cracks and creases, ceiling lights that flicker at the slightest storm, rarely any AC's, and hot water that lasts for fifteen minutes tops - sure, antiquity in this day and age can be a bit inconvenient and impractical. But I'm a bit of a hopeless romantic, and practicality has never been a strong suit of mine.
I have walked on many cobblestone roads in my life - but nothing compares to the cobblestones of San Miguel de Allende. You literally can't walk in your normal gait without a good pair of sneakers or hiking boots. If you're like me, and insistent on wearing your strappy gold sandals because you've been dying to wear something other than snow boats forever and a day, you'll find yourself tripping and tip-toeing all over the city with your eyes glued to the ground ahead of you. Our loft host wasn't kidding when she warned us about getting too confident with the streets of San Miguel! My heart jumped a little when I saw a girl attempting to walk in six inch heels...
Life moves slowly in this town. There are no streetlights or stop signs. No one is in a rush (except us New Yorkers of course egging a taxi driver on so that we can arrive at least ten minutes before our friend's wedding ceremony). The entire city is awash with warm colors, and the sun beams brightly, adding a golden hue to everything. The nights are cool (so Californian) and rather brisk and breezy. And everywhere you go, someone is strumming a Spanish guitar and crooning an old song. It is always about love, and it reminds you to slow down.
The locals are kind, and will try to talk to you, even if you don't speak a lick of Spanish. Most of the restaurants we've found and gone to Heaven in were all recommended to us as a result of stopping in local stores and asking in broken Spanish where they would go to eat. The food is homey, spiced and smokey, and layered with many flavors. It is unlike any "Mexican" food I've had elsewhere. And if you're feeling adventurous, San Miguel de Allende has quite the food scene with a lot of up and coming chefs, and trendy restaurants and bars serving up chic and interesting plates such as a jicama "tortilla," topped with fried brie and a delicate sweet and spicy slaw. In between walks and restaurants and views, there are also hundreds of little shops dedicated to local arts and crafts, and various handmade items. Every Saturday morning, San Miguel de Allende is bustling with an organic market selling farmed fruits and vegetables, locally made delicacies, and artisan cheeses.
One of the things I loved most about this city though is the number of restaurants, bars, and apartments with a rooftop deck. There isn't a bad view anywhere you go. You're either looking down at the beautiful streets or at the sprawling green hills speckled with colorful houses and lights. Even the crumbling buildings of old Mexico are beautiful - brightly painted, stubborn, and refusing to go.
Maybe it's the bit of Spanish genes I have, but I absolutely fell in love with San Miguel de Allende: its summer days and autumn nights, the smell of food in the air, love songs drifting through the roads, the saturated colors, the spiritual art that you find graffitied everywhere... you must go and experience it yourself. By the end of our weekend there, I felt completely at peace and at home. One of my favorite cities ever is Barcelona. I would move there in a heartbeat! I will say, however, that I might have found a mini Barcelona within San Miguel de Allende. Even the Parroquia totally has that similar gothic look as the Sagrada Familia!
In conclusion, I think it is about time I add Spanish to my list of languages to become fluent in.
I could go on about my trip to San Miguel de Allende, but I'll stop here. Below are some photos to share from my many walks...